The Town of Betong -

a historical Perspective

Good Friday Ride 2019

Back in April 2019, we embarked on a short solo trip over the Good Friday Weekend to the Southern Thailand's town of Betong. Betong is located in the Yala Province in southern Thailand. Betong is rich in insurgence history such that even up till today, there are occasional cases of insurgent activity with the province rocking the government official and militia within the province. Over the years there were many occasion when we were in Betong just after or before something happened (thank god we were not there during all the drama).

Brief history of communist insurgency between Thailand and Malaya (Malaysia)

The Communist insurgency in Malaysia, also known as the Second Malayan Emergency (Malay: Perang insurgensi melawan pengganas komunis or Darurat Kedua), was an armed conflict which occurred in Malaysia from 1968 to 1989, between the Malayan Communist Party (MCP) and Malaysian federal security forces.

Following the end of the Malayan Emergency in 1960, the predominantly ethnic Chinese Malayan National Liberation Army, armed wing of the MCP, had retreated to the Malaysian-Thailand border where it had regrouped and retrained for future offensives against the Malaysian government. Hostilities officially re-ignited when the MCP ambushed security forces in Kroh–Betong, in the northern part of Peninsular Malaysia, on 17 June 1968. The conflict also coincided with renewed domestic tensions between ethnic Malays and Chinese in Peninsular Malaysia and regional military tensions due to the Vietnam War.

While the Malayan Communist Party received some limited support from the People's Republic of China, this support ended when the governments of Malaysia and China established diplomatic relations in June 1974. In 1970, the MCP experienced a schism which led to the emergence of two breakaway factions: the Communist Party of Malaya–Marxist-Leninist (CPM–ML) and the Revolutionary Faction (CPM–RF). Despite efforts to make the MCP appeal to ethnic Malays, the organisation was dominated by Chinese Malaysians throughout the war. Instead of declaring a "state of emergency" as the British had done previously, the Malaysian government responded to the insurgency by introducing several policy initiatives including the Security and Development Program (KESBAN), Rukun Tetangga (Neighbourhood Watch), and the RELA Corps (People's Volunteer Group).

The insurgency came to an end on 2 December 1989 when the MCP signed a peace accord with the Malaysian government at Hatyai in southern Thailand. This coincided with the Revolutions of 1989 and the collapse of several prominent communist regimes worldwide. Besides the fighting on the Malay Peninsula, another communist insurgency also occurred in the Malaysian state of Sarawak in the island of Borneo, which had been incorporated into the Federation of Malaysia on 16 September 1963.

- source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Communist_insurgency_in_Malaysia_(1968%E2%80%931989)

Spent the night riding through 5 states of Malaysia to get to Betong by morning. It was always great to ride in the morning mist in Gerik with the morning sky giving out a purple hue, always a beautiful sight to see. Tasek Raban, a lake with a long bridge that spans the lake crosiing from one side to the other, is also a nice place to stop and admire the sight if you are travelling in the day. We are however travelling through these places in the dark therefore we are unable to capture the sights. Arrived in Gerik at dawn and managed to catch the purple hue in the sky on the misty mountains road.

Getting through immigration and crossing into Thailand

Next up is passing through the immigration of both Malaysia and Thailand. This crossing here is the easiest and simplest crossing between the two countries. Basically if you are staying within Betong Town itself, there is no need to fill in any other forms than just endorsing on your passport. However if you do intend to roam around outside of Betong Town or intend to travel to other provinces through Betong, then the normal formalities applies. i.e. Import permit, TM forms for conveyance on top of your immigration documents and Thai insurance.

Along the way we decided to stop by the Memorial for the fallen at the Kroh - Betong insurgency. There lies a wall marked out with the names of the fallen soldiers and police officers who were discharging their duties during the time of the insurgent. The area and the mood was sombre around the area with very little / few visitors or people hanging around the area.

More on the "Ops Sawadww Salam"

The convoy, which involved four police vehicles, was aimed at strengthening the defense at Betong Camp, after receiving initial information that it would be targeted by the CPM. As soon as the convoy led by Inspector Malik Arshad entered the Kroh-Betong border area, CPM terrorists who knew about the movement fired several shots at them. Inspector Malik and all his men immediately returned fire and fought hard even though there was no place for them to take refuge from the enemy. Unfortunately, the attack which lasted more than 20 minutes saw one PPH member after another fall to the ground. The position and strategy of the enemy attacking from three corners of the hill as the convoy went through a sharp bend, made it even more difficult for the security forces to break their attack.

Although there was another convoy vehicle led by ASP Tan Hun Tiong was only a few meters ahead, they could not help because they were also attacked by the enemy. The bloody incident saw 16 PPH members killed at the scene while Inspector Malik and 16 other members suffered serious injuries. More sadly, some of those killed were tortured by the enemy with their eyes gouged out, their hands cut off and their genitals cut off.

The ambush also caused severe damage to the team's vehicle with the effects of enemy fire as well as all weapons, equipment and radio communication sets were also confiscated.

Spent the late morning lazying around the town as planned and chilling. We did go around a few sites within the boundary of Betong Town just to revisit them again and for some photo opportunity. Some recuperation needed after the 6 hours on the road riding from Singapore to Betong.

Soon we arrived into the village. It was very quiet with very little residents who have chosen to remain behind in the village over the years. Over the years, many residents (younger generations) have chosen to leave the village and integrate with the mainstream society. It was outrightly obvious that the village was once a communist settlement with a red star marking the centre of the village as well the the remnants of communist ideology paraphernalia around the village.

A member of the MCP (Malayan Communist Party (MCP) agreed to give an account of her life during the time of the insurgencies. She has requested to blanked out her image as she was shy to be on video. I have documented an interview with the former communist member and will provide a translation of the excerpts as she could only speak in the Malay language.

Later on I was brought on a tour of a mini museum that they had conserved within their village. The museum boast displays of many former communist member's portraits , weapons as well as communication equipment during the insurgencies. Their history was so well documented that I was engrossed listening to the first hand experience personalised tour conducted for me. I was so thankful for the tour (which I had not asked for) that was given to me... in fact the museum was opened just for my visit. I felt so thankful for the chance to visit. I guessed they too were happy to have someone dropping by their village.

Was very thankful for the time spent here with these folks but as the day goes by, we have to make our way back to town. We do nkt want to be caught in the darkness within these remote areas once the night comes. Bade farewell and thanks to everyone and rode off back tracking to the rural roads and then finally to the main road linking to Betong town. All the way in and out there were no other vehicles so I can just imagine that if something were to happen, no one would ever know that I was here (praying hard for my safety throughout). It would be great if you could go with friends or at least leave word with the hotel of your intention to go to such places and what time to expect you back. In case of emergency there could be a search party who would be out there looking for you.

Dropped by the Hokkien Association of Betong boasting a beautifully crafted building in Chinese architecture and then went to the Betong Museum hoping to be able to find out what artefact they have on show. However the museum was closed for the day. Therefore we went on to have an early dinner at the market. Portions were small but tasty so I had second and third helpings. After dinner, I went around the nearby market and checked out the shops carrying various kind of "almost genuine" products consisting of tshirts, handbags and such. Spent the remainder of the evening walking around the streets and buying street food to be brought back to the hotel for late dinner/supper. WIll be looking forward to tomorrow for a new set of historical places to visit.

Betong - A Historical Perspective

Good Friday Ride 2019

Day 2

Betong

Taepusu Bridge is not only used to travel between villagers on both sides of the river. but also as a symbol of love and unity of people in the 32 km community as well. In the past, villagers on the other side of the Pattani River had difficulty traveling. which in that era must use bamboo rafts to cross - back and forth It is difficult to move agricultural products or sick people. Accidents occur often. and cause children to die every year The former kamnan at that time saw such hardships. Therefore, they helped to mobilize power and contributions from the villagers together with the government. Work together to build the construction until it is finally successful. And it was named “ Tae Pu Su Bridge ” after the pioneer itself.

Tourists of all directions flock to see the sea of ​​mist, Ayer Weng, Betong District, Yala Province during the long weekend. Not disappointed to see the fog after the rain. It is as dense and beautiful as anywhere else in Thailand. At the viewpoint of the sea of ​​mist Ayer Weng, Betong District, Yala Province, in the morning in Betong District It began to have a cold wind. After the rain in the evening, the sea of ​​mist is formed, dense, beautiful and long lasting every day during the long holidays. Making tourists traveling from all directions not disappointed.

The sea of ​​mist at Betong District As beautiful as anywhere in Thailand while entrepreneurs and villagers bring their tents to accommodate the tourists who have booked up for the long weekend. There are chalet now available in the area for tourist to spend the night and catch the early morning mist over sunrise. Latest news is that they have built a glass skywalk along the ridges and the area are more developed.

For our trip this time, we did not catch the sea of mist (refer to our other blog post on Betong for the sea of mist) as we had been here for many times even before this place became a tourist spot. now that it is touristy it has lost its charm of having to hike to catch a glimpse of the sea of mist

A quick stop by the weekend market before proceeding to our next stop. It is on occasions like this that you get to mix around with the locals as they carry on with their daily lives. The weekend market was lined along the main streets heading to a small village outskirt of Betongf. It was full of local people buying produce as well as foodstuff.

Next stop we headed on to the Piyamit Tunnel, a former communist garrison in the hills of Betong. Below a lush forest in Yala's Betong district is a tunnel system built by Malay communists in 1976. Today, it's the crown jewel of tourism in the province. The Piyamit Tunnels were used to hide from airstrikes and store supplies for members of the now-defunct Communist Party of Malaya. It was dug into a hill by 40-50 people, who spent only three months completing the task.

The tunnel network stretches about one kilometre, and could accommodate 200 insurgents. The system, at present, has six entrances, reduced from nine in the past. Inside the tunnels are rooms for radio communications, work stations, storage and sleeping quarters. The tunnels are covered by trees above ground, which made it hard for government-troops to locate, especially from the air.

The tourist attraction is open every day from 8am to 4.30pm to visitors who usually spend about two hours within the complex. The tunnel is fully lit and the cool air inside makes exploration comfortable. The route leading to the main entrance is lined with various kinds of plants and visitors can also enjoy a mountain stream there. One area outside the tunnels, formerly used as a training ground for the insurgents, has now been turned into an exhibition centre where information about what life was like in the tunnel is available. The tunnels attract about 200,000 visitors every year, which helps generate an annual income of around 14 million baht for the locals. About 90% of the visitors are foreign tourists, mostly from Malaysia and Singapore

Took the time to visit the other side of the city, more to the places where the locals live. Dropped by the shop Route 410 Betong to check out the merchandise (did not buy any though) and say hello to the owner. From there we went on to have early dinner, this time western melted cheeseburgers at the nearby shop.

Betong - A Historical Perspective

Good Friday Ride 2019

Day 3

Betong - Singapore

680 km

Day 3, we are heading home today (Sunday). Work starts tomorrow and we hope to be home before dark so that I have some time to spend with my family as well as get some rest before work starts on Monday. Departed Betong early morning after breakfast ar around 10am. It will be about a 6 hour journey down the North South Highway of Malaysia so I hope to be ablew to enter Singapore by 6 pm.

From there, we just made one stop in Ulu Bernam to pump petrol and then rode back straight =to Singapore.